Problem Trees in Southeast Michigan: Should You Remove Yours?

Three questions decide most of these. First, what is under it? A weak-wooded tree over a detached shed at the back of the lot is a different problem than the same tree over a bedroom. Second, what shape is it in? A problem species with a clean structure and a full canopy may have years left. The same species with a split fork or a hollow base does not. Third, is it spreading? Some trees on this list are a problem for you. A couple are a problem for the woods around you.

If you are replacing something, our guide to the top trees to plant in Michigan covers what to put in its place. This post is about the tree you already have.

What goes wrong: The Morton Arboretum describes silver maple as having weak wood and branch structure, notes that high winds and ice cause limbs to break without frequent pruning, and says its vigorous roots can invade sewer pipes. Connecticut's forestry program lists silver maple among the species most susceptible to ice storm damage. Old silver maples also tend to grow big codominant forks with included bark, which is where they split.

When it is fine: A silver maple with room to grow, away from the house, that has been pruned over the years and has no big cracks or decay is a large shade tree doing its job. There is no reason to take it down just because of what species it is.

When removal makes sense: When it hangs over the roof and has a split fork, a hollow trunk, large dead limbs, or it keeps dropping branches in every storm. If the roots are into your sewer lateral, see our post on tree roots, foundations and sewer lines before deciding.

What goes wrong: Box elder is a native maple, but the Morton Arboretum describes it as a weak-wooded tree prone to storm damage, susceptible to ice, and an aggressive self-seeder. It also attracts boxelder bugs, which the Arboretum notes often move into homes in the fall. Many box elders in yards were never planted. They seeded into a fence line or the corner of a garage and got big before anyone noticed.

When it is fine: A box elder at the back of a larger lot with nothing under it provides shade and wildlife cover at little risk.

When removal makes sense: When it is growing against a foundation, fence or garage, leaning over a structure, or when the fall invasion of bugs is a yearly headache. Seedlings in the lawn and beds are easy to pull while small.

What goes wrong: Eastern cottonwood is native and fast, and fast comes with tradeoffs. The Morton Arboretum lists weak wood and branch structure, susceptibility to ice, shallow roots that can invade septic and sewer systems, and a mature size of 75 to 100 feet tall. The Arboretum notes female trees produce large quantities of seed with white fluff attached, which ends up on screens, AC units and everything else nearby. The Arboretum's own recommendation is that cottonwood is best on large properties away from homes.

When it is fine: On acreage, along a pond or drainage, well away from buildings, a cottonwood is a big native tree and good habitat.

When removal makes sense: When it is within its height of the house or a neighbor's home, or showing dead tops or broken limbs. A 90-foot tree with brittle wood near a structure is the kind of removal worth planning in the off-season rather than after a storm.

What goes wrong: The state's own invasive species page notes that Callery pear has weak branches that can break, can spread by seed and root suckers into thickets, and that some twigs develop sharp thorns. Illinois Extension names Callery pear as a species particularly prone to included bark in tight forks. The classic Bradford shape is many upright stems from one point, which is exactly the structure that splits apart in wind or ice as the tree matures. The seedlings that escape into fields and roadsides can form thorny thickets.

The law: In May 2026 the Michigan Department of Agriculture and Rural Development added Callery pear to the state's restricted species list, effective January 1, 2028. From that date it will be unlawful to introduce, import, sell, possess with intent to distribute, or intentionally propagate it in Michigan. Coverage of the order reported that property owners are not considered in violation if the species is already established on their property. A pear in your front yard is not illegal, and nobody is requiring you to take it down. If you want certainty for your situation, MDARD is the place to ask.

When it is fine: A younger pear with a reasonably balanced shape, away from the driveway and roof, can stay.

When removal makes sense: When it has already lost a big section, when the main fork shows a crack or bulging seam, or when it sits over a car, walkway or roof. Many homeowners are also choosing to replace pears ahead of 2028 simply because the tree is on borrowed time structurally.

What goes wrong: Norway maple was widely planted as a street and yard tree, and many are still standing. The Morton Arboretum classifies it as invasive, noting it spreads by seed and casts shade dense enough to crowd out native plants. Illinois Extension writes that girdling roots that slowly strangle the trunk are almost expected on Norway maples, and adds scorch in hot dry weather, anthracnose and verticillium wilt. Under a Norway maple, grass usually struggles because of the dense shade and the tree's surface roots.

How to tell: Break a leaf stem. Illinois Extension notes Norway maple oozes white sap, while native sugar maple does not.

When it is fine: A healthy Norway maple with a good canopy is still a functioning shade tree. Illinois Extension acknowledges most of us are stuck with trees planted before our time and the advice is simply not to plant more.

When removal makes sense: When the trunk goes straight into the ground on one side with no root flare, a sign a girdling root may be hidden below, when sections of canopy are dying back, or when seedlings are spreading into a wooded area on your property.

What goes wrong: The Morton Arboretum describes white willow as a fast-growing tree with weak wood that is prone to storm damage and roots prone to invading sewer pipes, plus a long list of cankers, leaf spots and insects. Connecticut's forestry program lists willow among the species most susceptible to ice damage. Willows also shed a steady stream of twigs and small branches.

When it is fine: Beside a pond or in a wet corner with no pipes, driveway or house nearby, a willow is in its element.

When removal makes sense: When it was planted near the house or over the sewer line, when the trunk has decay or large cracks, or when it drops limbs onto a driveway, deck or fence every storm.

What goes wrong: Black locust is native to the Appalachians and South, not Michigan. The Morton Arboretum calls it potentially invasive outside its native range, noting it spreads by seed and aggressive root suckering into dense thickets. It also lists weak branch structure, ice susceptibility, thorns on young stems and the locust borer.

When it is fine: A single mature locust with no suckers coming up around it and sound limbs can stay. They flower in late spring and are visited by bees.

When removal makes sense: When suckers are popping up across the lawn, when locust borer damage or dead limbs are showing, or when the thorny young growth is near where kids play. Removing a black locust can trigger more root suckers, so plan to mow or pull them for a while afterward.

This is the one we would generally tell you to get rid of. The Michigan invasive species program describes tree of heaven as fast-growing, up to 70 feet tall, with roots that produce chemicals that suppress nearby plants, roots that can damage sewers and structures, and root shoots that form dense thickets. The leaves and flowers smell like rotten peanut butter when crushed. It is also a favored host of the spotted lanternfly, which is why the state asks residents to report it through MISIN.

The catch is how you remove it. Penn State Extension warns that cutting it down can make things worse, because the tree responds with dozens of stump sprouts and root suckers. Their recommendation is to treat it with a systemic herbicide in mid to late summer, July through September, when the tree is moving sugars down to its roots, then wait about 30 days before cutting. Follow-up treatment is often needed.

In practice that means the herbicide step comes first, applied according to the label or by a licensed applicator, and the cutting and stump grinding come after. If you cut first, expect to be fighting sprouts for years. It is also easy to mix up with sumac, ash, black walnut or hickory, so make sure of the identification before you treat anything.

Two practical notes. Some Southeast Michigan cities regulate removal of larger trees on private property or require a permit, and our post on tree removal permits covers the rules in general terms. Check with your city before a big tree comes out.

Second, think about what happens after. Several of these species, including black locust, tree of heaven, box elder and Callery pear, sprout from roots or stumps. Grinding the stump helps, and so does mowing new sprouts for a season or two.

If you have one of these trees and are not sure whether it is a keeper, we will come look at it with you and tell you honestly. Sometimes the answer is a good pruning and another ten years. When it is time for it to go, our tree removal crew takes it down and we can grind the stump the same visit.

Free estimates across Livonia and all of Southeast Michigan. Call (734) 788-8822.